Les vins d alsace.
When I first opened my store, back in 1991 I already was attracted to the traditionally long elegant bottle of the Alsatian region. Everything about these wines, from the label, to the shape of the bottle and bright shiny color of the inside content tells you that the wine rather extraordinary. Unfortunately Alsatian whites are often overlooked, by those who new to wines and sometimes by experienced wine drinkers, who confused them with the German wines and shun them for fear that anything “too sweet” or “fruity” pass through their lips. Misconception is that most Alsatian wines except for the late harvest ones are anything but sweet. I hope that after reading this week column, you will get curious and will try them before the summer ends. Food pairing with these wines not complicated, but requires some knowledge. The proper words to describe the Alsatian wines would be “Power” and “Finesse.” These two words give the wines very accurate characteristics. ”Power” is often used to differentiate them from German wines, to which they are unfortunately frequently compared. In comparison to the German wines, they are definitely fuller bodied and dryer, making them perfect accompaniment to fish and white meats. “Finesse”suggests the aromatic charm of their floral and fruity bouquets. Alsatian wines are labeled after the grapes from which they are made. The major white grape varieties are:
RIESLING :dry, crisp and elegant. Some of the best can have a subtle bouquets and complexity of a great white Burgundy. Much drier than German Rieslings, these wines are ideal with foods.
PINOT BLANC: always well-balanced, they offer tantalizing fruit, ranging from apples to citrus, with serious mineral undestones. Perfect with fish or chicken.
SYLVANER: very light wines, crisp and clean on the palate. An ideal wine for summer gatherings and perfect match for oysters.
TOKAY D’ALSACE or PINOT GRIS: luxuries, rich in aromatic overtones. Sometimes it has almost smoky bouquet of the summer’s evening wild flowers. Ideal match with creamy sauces and great with shell fish.
MUSCAT: Overwhelming with aromatics yet dry. A must with Oriental dishes.
VENDANGES TARDIVES: literally,” Late harvest” .These wines are made from grapes picked after the regular harvest; the grapes on the vines almost” raisin” looking and very sweet .They are full bodied with exquisite concentration and flavor, Their color of a very bright amber, but compare to the Moldavian or Hungarian Muscat these are dry, although some will have a small amount of residual sugar.
SELECTION de GRAINS NOBLES: Pure nectar. Only produced in exceptional years. These wines exhibit sumptuous concentration and great length. They can be enjoyed upon release, but has a great ability to age for years.
Some of the best and most famous producers of Alsatian wines are Trimbach,Zind-Hembrecht and Hugel.Although they age well, I would avoid most Alsatians any earlier than 20002 0r 2001 ,unless you know that merchant has stored the wines well. Since these wines don’t fly off the shelf be watchful of the vintages. For instance 1991 was, at best an average vintage. Finding Alsatian wines in many stores take some effort. You may find them alongside the German wines, if they are not among French. The prices increased quite a bit in recent years, and the most famous producers are getting plain expensive. As I am finishing this column, the delivery truck driver enters the store with the case of “ALSACE ONE”, by wonderful producer Pierre Sparr. This wine is an ultimate expression of Alsace’s premium grape varieties: Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Gewьrztraminer and Pinot Gris. “ONE” is synthesis of delicate floral aromas and fresh fruit flavors. It is crisp and dry with good body, intensity and depth. This wine is stylish and exciting! And it is remarkable for its versatility: perfect as an aperitif or enjoyed with seafood, pasta and poultry. For those who seek premium quality wines, this is the ONE! Always Remember, Life is a Matter of Taste!
(one of my very first column for local Journal)
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