French wine with Argentinean flair

wine column for the Country Wisdom magazine and Shawangunk Arts monthly

I Love Malbec, and many of the readers probably tried at least one or two Malbecs.In the last decade it has become more prevalent and popular in our country and the sign of a good wine shop most definitely is the one who has aisle with a sign "South American". So what is Malbec and what type of a grape it is? Let’s talk about it.

Well it is a grape. Its indigenous to France. Yes ,its a bit strange, since all Malbec we see seems to be from Argentina. But the fact is, in France Malbec is known as blending grape, used in faint quantities to soften the strength of Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux wines. Also the grape is known as “Cot” in areas outside of Bordeaux----for example it is main grape for the black wines of Cahors(they are called black, for their colors are known as really dark shades of red and leaving your tongue looking like a Chow –Chow’s).One of the reasons for Malbec playing secondary role in France is probably climate. Malbec needs more sun, more heat, less interference from mildew and phylloxera to thrive on its own.

Argentina and especially the" desert oasis " in the western province of Mendoza provides a perfect home for Malbec: alluvial soils of the high desert are sandy and loose and thus they are not friendly to pests like the phylloxera. The dry winds sweeping down the slope of the Andes keeping the mildew at bay. The high altitude vineyards irrigated by the melting mountain snow, sat under a glowing sun 300 days a year. So there are very important facts of why Malbec flourished in Argentina. Argentineans drink a lot of red wine and Malbec is everywhere! The country is the highest per-capita wine consumers in the world-80 liters of wine per person per year back in the 1960’s-!!!

Interestingly, as in any industry, someone had a “bright idea”and in the 1980’s many Malbecs were replaced with more marketable and exportable grapes such as Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. By the end of the decade only 10,000 acres of Malbec were left, at which point more intelligent winemakers came in and said:”..hey,there nothing special about the Cabernet and Chardonnay from Argentina..but Malbec-wow!”.In the 1990’s with Argentina’s return to democracy and hyper inflated economy, winemakers from around the world descended on and purchased undervalued Argentine vineyards. The influx is starting to pay dividends now, as more and higher quality price Malbecs are entering the market every year.

OK, But What Is Malbec, Really?

So that’s the background of the grape. But how about what it means to you, poured out into a glass?

Hard to pinpoint, actually. On the one hand, Malbec can be an inky black, rich and deep wine with big tannins and 20-year longevity. There are some Malbecs of outstanding quality at $50-$60 that rival “Super Tuscans” and California reds that cost twice the price. On the other hand, Malbec can also be fashioned into a ripe, approachable, soft, ten-buck wine that matches perfectly with pizza or pork.

Generally, though, most Malbec wines share these characteristics: ripe black fruits, such as plum and blackberry; peppery notes; earthy; firm tannins; ample acidity ; conducive to oak aging. In other words, a flavor profile that may be somewhere between California Cabernet Sauvignon and California Merlot. The Malbec wines called “Cahors” (which may be found in the France aisle of a very good wine shop) tend to be more inkier, more earthy, and a bit more tannic. The Argentine examples tend to be riper and more jammier (though there are some “old school” Argentine wineries that go more toward the rustic side).

If you haven’t yet tried a Malbec, and you enjoy red wines, then it’s a no-brainer — buy one and match it with a grilled skirt steak (or Portobello if red meat makes you uncomfortable). As with most wines, you will get what you pay for, so don’t pull a bottle from the bargain bin and expect it to bowl you over. My advice is to get to that decent wine shop, find the South American aisle, and spend somewhere between $12-18. You won’t be disappointed.

Here a few suggestions of the newest Malbec on the wine market:
Eagle’s Rock,Piedra del Aguila 2006-this wine comes from Uco Valley and it is a homage to the dedication and efforts that the eagle puts in her rebirth in the mountain stones of the valley. Full bodied and well balanced this wine is an excellent addition to the hearty soups, fresh breads with soft cheddar cheeses, salmon steak with steamed carrots and Japanese rice ..or whatever your heart desires.The low acidity of this wine allows it to be pair with wide variety of foods.

Massimo Prestige Vineyards, 2009-A very special bottle! Grapes for this wine grown in Mendoza,Argentina,on the slopes of the Andes mountains. At nearly 4,000 ft,it is one of the highest elevation vineyards in the world and is well regarded for production of complex and densely flavored grapes.It is dark,full bodied,with ripe blueberry and plum, framed by spice and tobacco.Superb with classic mixed grill, spiced-rubbed chicken ,burgers, ribs, chops.

Remember, Life is a matter of taste!

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• 06.02.2011. French wine with Argentinean flair