In Vino Veritas

Wine lovers are a little confused about the Supertuscan category. The name itself is seemingly unequivocal. Even if you don't know what a Tuscan is, you intuitively understand that a super version is going to be bigger, better, and probably dosed with more Tuscan.

In fact, the Supertuscans are a class of wines that deviate profoundly from the rules that traditional wines from Tuscany must follow. The class was born from the desire to blend Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and other popular (and profitable) new world grapes with Sangiovese, the traditional grape of Tuscany. In practically no time, of course, it occurred to wine makers, why use Sangiovese at all?

Angelo Gaja made his reputation in the north of Italy re-inventing Nebbiolo for us moderns. His new project in coastal Tuscany produces a Supertuscan called Ca'Marcanada Magari that is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. It's about $75 a bottle, tastes absolutely mind-bending, but contains 0% Sangiovese.

If anything, you could make the case that these wines end up not more Tuscan, but less for the effort. In the shadow of the Supertuscans are a whole world of super Tuscans that are keeping it real by keeping it old school.

Conti Contini Sangiovese (about $15, should be available everywhere, distributed by wine industry giant Moлt Hennessy USA, www.capezzana.it) Conti Contini is the second, maybe third label of Capezzana, a winery that was making wines in the Supertuscan style decades before the term was invented. Capezzana has been blending in a little Cabernet Sauvignon since at least the middle 1960s. Conti Contini is true to Tuscan style, rugged and rustic, full of tangy bing cherry flavors. The aroma is herbal and aromatic, and I think I smell rosemary, dill, and even some black pepper. Best news of all: this 100% Sangiovese costs about a third of the winery's flagship wine.

(Boston Wine Institute)

Другие статьи в литературном дневнике:

• 15.01.2011. Wines of winter, foods and budgets
• 07.01.2011. In Vino Veritas