One more time about pinot grigioPinot Grigio is an exceptional wine. Crisp, clean can be racy and full of flavours.What to do to find one that worth your attention ?Well, go to Venice, be careful not to turn south to Rome, keep north, east and up to Tyrolean villages among snowy peaks and along the coast to the border port of Trieste. A step further and you are in Austria and Slovenia, stretch your arm and you are in Germany, Switzerland and Croatia. This region produces the best white wines of Italy. They are classic and imaginative. They are made on a crossroads of winemaking cultures. These wines made with great precision. They are quite different from the wines from Alsace; the techniques of northern Italy’s wine production elevate local grapes to the elegance of the noblest Riesling or Burgundy. Please spare me from all the talk about Santa Margarita and Cavit! You have watched too many ads! You may experience in a taste cool climate, high altitude, rocky streams and German techniques, but the complexity comes from the region’s unique human character, history and mix of nationalities. The people who live in the area are survivors. The characters and blood in their veins remembers Julius Caesar, the crusaders, Napoleon, two world wars, constantly changing borders, alliances and ideologies. The people,survivors:they are practical, independent and flexible. The true character of Neapolitan shines through a passionate love for the Italy’s greatest white wines. Anyway the geography of Pinot Grigio can be very confusing. It’s along the Adige River and in the region of Trentino Alto Adige bordering with Austria. It is also to the East Friuli Giulia,which stretches along Slovenia from the mountains and foothills down to plains along Adriatic. When browsing the shelves of the wine shop forget Italian and look for the names that sound German or Slavic: Zemmer, Jermann, Tramin, Attems, Hofstatter, Kupelwieser, Damijan and Schiopetto.The best Pinot Grigio are from small wineries and the most prized in Alto Adige and Friuli especially the Colli/Collio hills. The heirloom grapes meet human savvy and innovation in the winery. Full ranges of the techniques are used, from big Slovenian oak tanks to gleaming stainless steel, to vinify the wine to the winemakers taste. Here, more than anywhere else in the world winemakers combines modern techniques with ancient. Friuli most imaginative winemaker Josko Gravner gave up on modern stainless steel 20 years ago and switched to small oak barrels. In recent years he has used amphora ,huge clay urns from biblical times which he buries in the earth where the wine ferments and ages on its own. Pinot Grigio is more than the best-known Italian white. Most buyers know little more that the most heavily advertised brands. If you will look beyond those your money will buy more quality than marketing. Just keep in mind geography. Read label carefully and look for traditional home in northeastern Italy like Trentino, Alto Adige and Colli, most specifically Collio.Expect to spend $10 to $25,more than for cheap refrigerator white. I recommend drink fresh recent vintages; older vintages tend to loose the brilliant color of the wine and the taste becomes dull. It does not mean Pinots cannot be aged for a few years, but in my experiences for the best results Pinot Grigio must be drink in most recent vintages. Styles will range from bright and crisp to ripe and round, the flavors are of fresh apples, pears and some peaches, with spice and mineral sparkle. It is because of its geography this wine matching many foods that aren’t classically Italian. It is pairs with cabbage, Savoy, cooked craut, apples, the prosciutto, asparagus, beans and beet salads. Polenta is a staple and the best pastas are agnolotti dumplings filled with raisins and pears. Don’t forget strudels and hearty soups. Serve very cold and try with smoked meats, pork, hard cheeses, freshwater fish and shellfish. Bon Appetite! Life is a matter of taste! © Copyright: Бэлла 2, 2010.
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